Very occasionally all the factors which facilitate a great multi-day walk all coincide; availability, fitness, weather, time of year and location. That is exactly what happened with my 2023 trip to the Cairngorms and truly an answer to prayer after having to miss out a section of my big seven day wild-walk last April. This four day tour of the NE Cairngorms has to rank as the best multi-day walk I’ve done in ten years and my best wild-walk ever. The walk totalled 52 miles over four days at the end of May 2023.
Day 1 – Linn of Quoich Car Park to Ben Avon : 11.5 miles / 1020 m
It is a long walk in to Ben Avon, and many people opt to cycle the shooters track to the base of the climb to cut 8 miles off of the total. Whilst not as appealing as Glen Lui, with it’s photogenic Scots Pines, it was an reasonably attractive walk in made more so by knowing that I would not be re-tracing my steps. My route first took me up Beinn A’ Bhuird (the first of six Munro’s and at least as many tops of this trip).
Whilst the summit is apparently featureless, the beauty of patches of delicate alpines which graced my lunch spot were simply delightful. As is typical in this area, whilst the hills are mostly flat topped, the cliffs and Cories are spectacular, especially when patches of snow add further contrast.
The descent to the Bealach between Beinn A’ Bhuird and Ben Avon was sketchy due to the fine loose surface on the steeper sections which I was negotiating with a full multi-day pack. The re-ascent was a lot easier. One of the significant attractions of Ben Avon is the granite tor which forms the summit, a feature more often associated with Dartmoor. On the morning of starting my walk I had to decide which tent to take with me, my plan was to use my four season Soulo if the wind looked to be strong or my lighter Enan if the conditions looked more gentle. The later being 1.2 kg / 50% lighter. The nature of the ground on my approach to the tor had me doubting my decision to bring the Enan as it looked like ground which would not take pegs and a freestanding design would be essential. However, my preparatory research had suggested that the far side (NE) of the tor would be my most likely camping area, so I held onto hope.
Whilst much of the far side of the tor was strewn with rounded boulders there was also a sizeable area blanketed with moss which on investigation I found to be atop fine rounded gravel. Whilst I needed to double peg the main guys I managed a secure and very comfortable pitch.
Once set up for the evening I enjoyed climbing the tor itself.
Day 2 – Ben Avon Summit to Loch Avon – 14.5 miles / 240 m
This was to be a longer day in terms of distance, but one which was mostly downhill and it started with a beautiful clear sky and the lightest of winds. After retracing my steps back across the Bealach it was time to head off piste on a pathless route down to Glen Avon passing beside the rocky outcrops of Stob an t’Sluichd. Whilst the descent was slow, the poor soil meant than none of the heather was deep so it wasn’t hard to find a sensible route across the ground. About ¾ of the way down I hit the path shown on the OS Map and headed to the suspension bring across the River Avon.
Much of the rest of Day 2 / the lower reaches of Glen Avon were an uninspiring but necessary yomp to get me to the head of Glen Avon ready for the next day. The highlights of the day were waiting for the final 30 min of the day. The first being the Fords of Avon Refuge.
After this the Glen narrowed in and held its magic in suspense round a bend in the river like a slowly revealed plot twist in a well written novel. The view up Loch A’an (Avon) made the afternoon’s route march wholly worthwhile. Truly the most stunning wild camping spot I have ever experienced in over 30 years of backpacking! Arriving at the Loch I was initially disappointed to see a group of five lads with big packs, but they were just having a break and when they moved on I had the Loch to myself all evening. Such a beautiful place, which included my own private beach allowing me to cool and wash my feet whilst drinking in the majestic splendour of the location.
To sit and eat your dinner / breakfast with views of Cairngorm, Ben Macdui, Carn Etchachan and the Shelter Stone across the clear waters of the loch was simply sublime.
Day 3 – Loch Avon to the Wells of Dee – 12.1 miles / 1380 m
This was going to be my biggest day and I was unsure if the higher streams on upper slopes on either side of Cairngorm would still be running so I started my first big climb of the day with two litres of water to last me until I reached the Lairig Ghru around 3pm. Actually there was still plenty of snow melt feeding both the stream just above The Saddle and that draining into Lochan below Cairn Lochan. The story of this day is better told in pictures than words
This was my first ascent of Cairngorm so I enjoyed seeing the famous weather station on the summit. My route then took me along the edge of a spectacular series of corries and buttresses until it was time to drop down to the Chalamain Gap and further into the Lairig Ghru. It was now the hottest period of the day as I started my ascent of Braeriach which afforded the views I had hoped for, yet missed out on, last year. The final push around Coire Bhrochain to the summit was hard, it being the culmination of a total of nearly 1400 m that day with full kit.
The springs to the North of the Falls of Dee were otherworldly but not a suitable place to stop.
The banks of the larger stream from the West (fed by the Wells of Dee), however, were an excellent spot. Sadly it was not possible to pitch close enough to the edge of the cliffs to get the amazing view from the tent itself but finding myself at 4000’ and it too warm to sit in the tent to cook was a very pleasantly surreal experience. Walking over to see the Falls of Dee only to find them hidden under a snow bridge simply added to the bizarre nature of the place.
What an amazing day!
Day 4 – Wells of Dee to Linn of Dee – 13.4 miles / 300 m
I awoke to yet another fine warm day and was on the move by 0730. I was expecting the descent back into the Lairig Ghru to be slow. After revelling in the views from the top of The Angels Peak it was tackling the boulder fields around the summit of Cairn Toul (1291 m) which proved the slow point of the day. Whilst no climbing is involved, picking a route through these boulder fields makes Cairn Toul feel like a hard-won summit.
The sense of satisfaction of claiming my sixth Munro of the trip, three of which being above 4000’ was considerable. Now it was time to tackle the descent of the boulder field, across one more top and drop down into the Bealach at the foot of The Devil’s Point. The fine rounded gravel, typical of the Cairngorms and erosion of the path made the initial descent, following the burn, to the Corrour Bothy tricky with 11 kg on my back. However after only around 50 m the path became less steep and more secure so I could enjoy walking alongside a series of waterfalls down to the bothy.
Now I was on the walk out, but as I remembered from last year the trees of Glen Lui and Gleann Laoigh Bheag were a delight and offered welcome shade. My erroneous route plan suggested the day was to be 16 miles, so I ate lunch on the hoof and was surprised how quickly I reached Derry Lodge. It was a welcome surprise to realise that I only had three miles of pleasant flat walking to finish my adventure in the Cairngorms.
I enjoyed a second lunch at the Linn of Dee whilst cooling off my feet in the river.
Epilogue
I have been multi-day walking for over 30 years and wild walking since 2017 and these four days proved an unchallenged apex of all my walking experiences in the UK. The ability and opportunity to climb several peaks over 3000’ and three over 4000’ whilst having all I needed for a comfortable unsupported 52 mile trek was an amazing blessing. The views, made accessible by the weather, the solitude, the warm evenings to relax, read and enjoy my evening meal with world-class views from highly elevated camping pitches were all prodigious aspects to an exceptional four day walk.
If you are inspired to spend time in the Cairngorms remember they are a truly wild place whose weather is rarely as kind as it was to me on this trip. Whilst my waterproof gear proved a dead weight, I would not have gone without it. Note also that once you are > 30 min from your entry point / road-end you will not get mobile phone coverage unless you are close to a skiing centre, I use a Garmin InReach Mini satellite tracker / communicator for walks like these which provides assurance to my family and the ability to contact either my family or the Mountain Rescue from anywhere with a view of the sky should that be required. Finally I must thank Mrs W who drove twice from her Aviemore campsite to Braemar to drop off and collect me.
weston.front 
Very interesting
A wonderful walk in so many ways. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for a wonderfully detailed , descriptive post . Geoff , Birmingham
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